Reproduced with permission - The Toronto Star Syndicate

July 3, 01:00 EDT

Wheeling along Seaway Trail

Pastoral scene along waterfront Pride in heritage
is seen in towns

VICKI BARRON
SPECIAL TO THE STAR

Fair Haven, N.Y.—We were promised that the legendary "cookie house" would be one of the finest rewards for our hard work cycling all morning. And we were not disappointed. Overlooking Little Sodus Bay, we entered the house from a large, cozy porch that had been built by the owner's son, John Bridson, a master builder and wood carver.

The house is a work of art, with its carved pillars and decorations — a landmark and a worthwhile stop. We were torn between admiring the intricate sculptures depicting magical creatures and enchanting characters and the aroma of baking that was wafting through the screen doors.

The Fly by Night Cookie Company is the brainchild of Bonnie Bridson who started the company as a way to work from home. There's coffee and tea on the porch, just help yourself, and then wander into the parlour for one of the biggest decisions of the day — choosing one, or several, of 65 varieties of exotic cookies, including dragon eggs, black walnut blossoms, elderberry moons, and cookies that cure PMS. And it's all on the honour system — just put $1 for coffee and 50 cents for each cookie in the dish provided.

The coffee break that morning was one of the highlights of our trip along the Seaway Trail in Upper New York State this past Victoria Day weekend. The bike/car adventure rounded out our circumnavigation of Lake Ontario, which began last summer when we cycled the Canadian shores of Lake Ontario along the Lake Ontario Waterfront Trail from Niagara-on-the-Lake to Brockville.

We planned our route to start our adventure in Lewiston, N.Y., and finish in Cape Vincent, N.Y. with a ferry trip to Wolfe Island, Ont. The Lake Ontario section of the Seaway Trail is about 400 km — you can connect at either Lewiston or Cape Vincent, making the trip a close to home getaway and we all agreed it felt just like that — a real getaway.

The U.S. side of the lake is not as populated as the Canadian side and is easily travelled, following the Seaway Trail signs. The trail, which is celebrating its 25th anniversary, is designated as a national scenic by-way for touring by car, but its paved and marked shoulders make it a dream for seasoned recreational cyclists conditioned to handle the rolling terrain and steep hills. These hills provided a demanding and steady workout until we passed Henderson Harbour where the landscape begins to levels off.

Situated high on a bluff, the first stretch of trail from Lewiston to Webster (just east of Rochester) runs under the verdant canopy of old maple and oak trees. You can feel the sharp breeze blowing off the lake even when you can't see it (much of the waterfront is privately owned). But this does not compromise the scenic nature of the route. Towns like Lewiston and Youngstown are clearly committed to preserving their heritage, lakeside architecture and atmosphere. Private homes, too, have a lot of character and speak elegantly of a time past.

Vivian Dendecker of the Carriage Inn in Sodus Point (http://www.carriage-house-inn.com or 315-483-2100) came to characterize for us the love and appreciation of heritage on this side of the lake. "I got the idea to convert our heritage house into an inn as a way to keep it." She had fallen in love with the stunning 1870 Victorian home and didn't want to sell it when she and her husband bought a neighbouring house. Despite her husband's doubts and her inexperience, she created a prosperous B&B and today, 18 years later, she is still in love with both the house and the work. Her hospitality offers plenty of proof.

Hardwood forests give way to farm fields and blossoming apple orchards and quaint "seaside" fishing towns like Olcott. Although angling is an important economic activity in this area, Olcott is working to enhance its appeal to tourists by creating a lovely short boardwalk where there are a number of unique shops, an old-fashioned carousel and an inspiring view of Lake Ontario's expanse.

Most of the region's major urban centres are located inland and south of the lake, allowing the waterfront to remain relatively pastoral.

In Pultneyville, a sleepy village with a small harbour and heritage homes, including a fine cobblestone house, we stopped for lunch at the local hangout — the Pultneyville Pickle. The service was friendly and the atmosphere casual.

At Southwick Beach State Park, just west of Henderson Harbour (where we stayed on night three at the Charter House Inn, http://www.charterhouseinn.com or 315-938-7200), you can take a self-guided tour that will introduce you to five very different habitats —woodland, meadow, wetland, sand dune and the Lake Ontario shoreline. It's a terrific experience suitable for the whole family and one the park hopes to make wheelchair accessible in the near future.

Our cycling ended at Sackets Harbour, a charming town with excellent restaurants (Tin Pan Galley with its patio garden is a must for lunch or dinner), B&Bs and a major landmark in the history of the War of 1812. It's interesting to get the American perspective and test your knowledge of the War of 1812 at the Seaway Trail Discovery Center.

For more information on the Seaway Trail, call toll-free 1-800-SEAWAY-T (732-9298) or go to http://www.seawaytrail.com.

The Lake Ontario Waterfront Trail and the Seaway Trail together create a marvellous way to explore Lake Ontario by car or by bike. The entire trip around the lake is 1,130 km, and it offers a wide variety of sights and attractions in the many communities along the shore.

Canada's Lake Ontario Waterfront Trail connects 35 communities, 189 natural areas, 180 parks and promenades, 92 marinas and yacht clubs and hundreds of museums and galleries and, not be outdone by the creative culinary talents of the cookie lady, you can find the finest apple pie around thanks to Sharon Knight of Rundles Roadside Market in Brighton. We sampled her cooking genius last summer in Colborne on an earlier cycling adventure.

For details on this trip, go to http://www.waterfronttrail.org.
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Vicki Barron is a Toronto-based freelance writer.